Wild Food Recipes
By late August, the hedgerows are heavy with blackberries, and there are few pleasures in foraging that compare to filling a bucket on a warm afternoon. Blackberries are one of the easiest wild foods to start with because they are widespread, unmistakable, and forgiving. Even so, a little planning makes the difference between a frustrating scratchy outing and a haul worth preserving.
The best berries are not always the biggest or the darkest. A ripe blackberry should come away from the stem with almost no pull, leaving the white core behind on the plant. If you have to tug, it is not ready. Look for berries that are deep black all over, with no red or purple patches, and taste one before you commit to a patch. A berry that is sweet and slightly tart is perfect for jam, while overly soft fruit is better eaten straight away.
Blackberry bushes are thorny, so dress for the job. Long sleeves, sturdy trousers, and a pair of gardening gloves will save your arms and hands. A shallow container is better than a deep bucket because it prevents the berries at the bottom from being crushed under the weight of those on top. If you are picking somewhere popular, go early in the morning when the fruit is cool and the paths are quiet.
Location matters more than technique. Avoid picking low down along roadsides where exhaust fumes settle, and skip bushes that grow right at dog-walking height. The cleanest fruit tends to be higher up, where the sun reaches and the spray from passing cars does not. Brambles also grow in abandoned lots and along railway lines, so if you are unsure whether a spot has been treated with herbicides, ask a local forager or simply move on. There is always another hedge.
As you pick, keep an eye out for the small wildlife that shares the harvest. Wasps and bees are drawn to the ripest fruit, so check each cluster before you plunge your hand in. A gentle shake of the branch will usually send them on their way. It is also worth leaving the lower berries for the birds and small mammals that depend on them, especially early in the season.
You do not need a huge harvest to make jam. A pound of berries, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and a squeeze of lemon will give you two or three small jars. Rinse the berries briefly, then tip them into a heavy pan with the sugar and lemon juice. Warm gently until the sugar dissolves, then raise the heat and boil hard for ten to fifteen minutes, stirring often.
To test whether it is set, spoon a little onto a cold saucer and push it with your finger. If it wrinkles, it is ready. If not, boil for a few more minutes and test again. Pour into sterilized jars, seal, and label. The jam will keep for a year in a cool cupboard and tastes like bottled sunshine in the middle of winter.
Beyond jam, blackberries freeze well on a tray before being bagged, so you can drop a handful into smoothies or crumbles whenever the mood strikes. They also make a fine vinegar, a rich sauce for game, and a striking purple syrup for cocktails. Whatever you do with them, pick with care, leave some for the wildlife, and enjoy one of the most generous seasons the hedgerows have to offer.
